Craft cocktail movement

The craft cocktail movement arose as a reaction against decades of sugary, pre-mixed drinks and a focus on volume over quality. Bartenders began to treat cocktail making as a culinary art, emphasizing fresh citrus, house-made syrups, and small-batch spirits.¹ The movement drew inspiration from the "golden age" of cocktails in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, reviving recipes from Jerry Thomas's 1862 How to Mix Drinks and other historical sources.²

Central to the philosophy is the idea of "cocktail culture" as a craft, with attention to technique such as proper shaking, stirring, and dilution. Pioneers like Dale DeGroff in New York and Dick Bradsell in London are credited with laying the groundwork in the 1980s and 1990s, but the movement gained mainstream traction in the 2000s with the opening of bars like Milk & Honey in New York and PDT.³

The movement was propelled by a handful of influential bartenders and bar owners. Sasha Petraske, who opened Milk & Honey in 2000, enforced strict rules like no standing, no bottle service, and a focus on classic cocktails. Jim Meehan, who founded PDT (Please Don't Tell) in 2007, brought a speakeasy vibe and a meticulous approach to ingredients and service.⁴ In London, Tony Conigliaro of 69 Colebrooke Row experimented with modernist techniques, while in San Francisco, H. Joseph Ehrmann of Elixir helped revive historic bars.

These figures also contributed to the professionalization of bartending, with competitions like the Bombay Sapphire World Class and educational platforms like the USBG (United States Bartenders' Guild) raising the bar's status. The movement also spawned a wave of cocktail books, including The Craft of the Cocktail by Dale DeGroff and Imbibe! by David Wondrich, which documented the history and techniques.⁵

Craft cocktails are defined by their use of fresh, high-quality ingredients and precise techniques. Bartenders often make their own bitters, tinctures, and syrups, and they may use techniques like fat-washing, clarification, and carbonation to create unique textures and flavors. Ice is also a focus: large-format ice cubes, clear ice, and hand-cut spheres are used to control dilution and temperature.

The movement also revived interest in forgotten spirits and liqueurs, such as amaro, absinthe, and genever, and encouraged the use of local and seasonal produce. The emphasis on balance and flavor led to a re-evaluation of classic recipes, with bartenders often tweaking proportions to suit modern palates while staying true to the original spirit.

From its epicenters in New York and London, the craft cocktail movement spread globally, influencing bar culture in cities like Tokyo, Sydney, and Berlin. In Tokyo, bartenders like Hidetsugu Ueno are known for their meticulous technique and hospitality, while in Australia, the movement merged with a vibrant coffee culture to create unique drinking experiences.

The movement also influenced the hospitality industry at large, leading to the rise of "speakeasy" bars, cocktail menus with detailed descriptions, and a greater emphasis on training and education for bartenders. It has also spurred a revival of classic cocktail bars in hotels and restaurants, and has been credited with boosting the craft spirits industry, as consumers seek out small-batch and artisanal products.

Beyond the well-known figures, the movement has many overlooked contributors. For example, the role of women in the craft cocktail revival is often underappreciated; pioneers like Julie Reiner of Clover Club and Audrey Saunders of Pegu Club were instrumental in shaping the movement's standards.⁶ Additionally, the movement has a strong connection to the revival of Tiki culture, with bars like Smuggler's Cove in San Francisco championing rum-based drinks and exotic ingredients.

Another niche aspect is the influence of the movement on non-alcoholic cocktails, or "zero-proof" drinks, which have gained sophistication as bartenders apply the same techniques to alcohol-free creations. The movement also has a dark side: the high cost of ingredients and labor has led to criticism of elitism and a lack of accessibility, with some arguing that it has made cocktails less approachable for the average consumer.

Speakeasy

An illicit bar from the Prohibition era, now used to describe hidden or secret bars.

Fat-washing

A technique of infusing spirits with fats (e.g., bacon) to add flavor and texture.

Amaro

An Italian herbal liqueur with a bitter-sweet flavor, often used as a digestif.